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Atmolight
Connecting IKEA Dioder LED-Stripes
Connecting the IKEA Set to the board is quite easy, however you need some basic tools.
First, you need to cut the original cable and stip off the insulating at one end. I use a wire-cutter-tool (german: Seitenschneider) for this task. I also crimped some
wire end sleeves (german: Adernendhülsen) since they look neat. If you are done, you are ready to connect these wires to the screw-clamping-blocks on the PCB.
Make sure to assign them in the right order. I made some pictures illustrating the numbering and the location of pin one on the board. If you did
eveything right, the inner two wire should be crossed and he red label printet on the cables should point down.
Wire numbering
| Pin | Pattern on Cable |
|---|---|
| 1 | none (text) |
| 2 | crosses |
| 3 | long lines |
| 4 | short dotted line |
Pin1 location (Blue '1' and red circle)
Controller Board (ver.03b)
Improved version of v03a with all known errors fixed.
The Eagle-Files can be found here: atmo_usb_multi_03b.zip.MyReichelt Shopping-Cart: atmo-usb-multi-03b
(However, the power-conenctor is still missing in the cart, since it is not in stock at Reichelt)
Controller Board (ver.03a)
I finally made it and redesigned the board. Now everything for the quad-version fits on a single 75x100mm Board.
If you want to save some cents, you can use one crystal resonator for both ATMegas. Just leave C5, C6 and Q1
open and place a jumper wire as shown on the picture below (Label 'Brücke einlöten'). Anyway,
set the fuses on both controllers to crystal oszillator, not external oszillator!
The ICSP header has the following pin assignment:
| Pin | Function |
|---|---|
| 1 | GND (the purple '1' in the picture above) |
| 2 | RESET |
| 3 | SCK |
| 4 | MOSI |
| 5 | MISO |
I used the following fuses: LowerByte: 0xDE; UpperByte:0xC9;
On the solder side, you have to set some solder bridges to assign the channels.
Please be carefull: due to an error in the design, the pads for bridge 2 and 3 at channel 3 are reversed!
| 1 | 2 | 3 | Channel |
|---|---|---|---|
| X | X | X | Sum |
| X | X | Bot | |
| X | Top | ||
| X | X | Right | |
| X | X | Left |
Errors in version 03a:
- The Pads 2&3 for channel 3 are reversed
- The LED is connected to TX (should be RX)
- The Names of the connectors X1&X2 and X3&X4 are reversed
(please check newer version above)
SMD DIY LED-Stripes
Start with a Euro Board and break (or cut) it into stripes. Then glue them together (I overlapped them by 50%) back on back. I also used silver wire to solder them together (this makes bonding easier) - but be careful, only do this on ONE side. Now you should have a long stripe with 4 lanes of copper on each side.
Use solder to bridge the joints between the single stripes.
Now use a pen and mark the placed for the SMD LEDs.
I used a Dremel-Tool to cut the copper lanes.
Its time to mount some LEDs. The resistors were also mounted on top of the board. You see the cut above the two blue resitors? I disconnected the copper lane after every 3 LEDs (5 for the red LEDs). On one side I mounted the resistor, the other side was connected to the bottom of the board.
Done.
VDR-Wiki LED-Stripes
In late 2007, a user at vdr-portal.de started a centralized order for both the PCB and the LEDs. So i was able to build to two stripes
for a total of 22Euros. The PCB itself was manufactured somewhere in China and the LEDs shipped from Hongkong.
Since this is a through-hole-design soldering one stripe took some time. It would be much faster using SMD-parts.
Controller Board (ver.01)
Since i didnt want to connect my atmolight via serial port I decided to build a custom PCB with a USB-Serial-Converter onboard. The PCB was designed with Eagle. Changes compared to the original atmo board are:
- USB-Powered (no switching regulator necessary)
- Stereo and Quad version on one PCB.
- fixed channel assignments
- only common-anode is supported
The Eagle-Files can be found here: atmo_usb_multi_01.rar.
Action!
Sorry, I wasnt able to take some pictures so far...
